Sewing-machine



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J. H. CLARK. SEWING MACHINE. No. 485,371. Patented Nov. 1, 1892.

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. J H` CLARK SEWING MAGHINB.

Patented Nov. 1, 1892.

w 6 w w co. mowLrmo.. wAsmncTon o c `N1Tn Tatras JAMES H. CLARK, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 485,371, dated November 1, 1892. Application filed September '7Jv 1891. Serial No. 404,966. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.:

Be itknown that I, JAMES H. CLARK, of Chicago, county of Cook, State of Illinois, have inventedan Improvementin Sewing-Machines for Staying, of which the following description, in connectionl with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and tigures on the drawings representing like parts.

In the manufacture of wearing-apparel it is desirable, and customers are beginning to demand, that certain parts subjected to considerable strain shall be stayed. To do this eifectively, I have devised a machine to be described.

In accordance with this invention the material to be stayed is held in a suitable clamp, which has imparted to it movement in the direction of the length of the stay for a distan ce depending upon its length, and then the clamp has imparted to it a return movement or a movement in the opposite direction to enable one series of overseaming-stitches to be superimposed over orupon the first series. This clamp will preferably derive its movements through or by the intervention of a cam, preferably some form of a heart-cam. The cam used herein derives its step-by-step or intermittingly-rotating movement by or through a clutch mechanism, preferably of the ratchet class, the said clutch in this instance of my invention being actuated by or from a rockshaft, which in the machine herein described, it being of the Wheeler in Wilson variety, is common to and forms a part of the usual feed motion.

Figure 1 in side elevation represents a sufiicient portion of a Wheeler t Wilson sewing-machine, style D12, to which my improvements have been added to enable my invention to be understood, part of the framework being broken out to represent parts which otherwise would be concealed. Fig. 2 is a plan view taken below the section line 0c, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a partial under side view of the machine; Fig. 4, section in the line Fig. 3; Fig. 5, a section in the line x2, Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a partial left-hand end elevation of the machine shown in Fig. l. Fig. 7 shows the gate detached, together with the needle-bar in the 5o bearings of the gate; and Fig. 8 is a diagram showing the rst and second rows of stitches of the staying.

My invention consists, essentially, ina sewing-machine for staying wearing-apparel, including the following instrumentalities, viz: overseaming stitch forming mechanism, a clamp to hold the material to be stayed, the said clamp having an extended bearing-surt'ace, a roller-presser acting upon the said surface, a fulcrum-lever, a heart-cam, and lever mounted *upon the said fulcrum-lever and actuated by the said cam, and connected with the said clamp to operate substantially as will be described.

Other features of myinvention will be hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims at the end of this specilication.

The bed-plate A, the overhanging arm A2, the under shaft CX, the link b4, connecting a crank thereof with a crank on the needle-baractuating shaft B in the overhanging arm, the needle-bar A4, the take-up m10, the cam f1.3 on the shaft CX, the arm fw on the rockshat'tf9, provided at one end with a rocking guide-box f6, in which is fitted a block or stud carried by a link f4, jointed to an arm f? ofa rock-shaft f2, and the link flo, connecting the link f4 with the feed-regulating shaft f2 are and may be all substantially as in the sald sewing-machine, and also as in United States Patent No. 405,205, wherein like parts are de signated by the same letters and figures herein used. Upon the shaft B is a hub B', having crossing grooves in which is entered a suitable swivel block or shoe of an arm B2, having at its upper end a horizontally-extended pivot Bix, extended into and suitably mounted upon the overhanging arm, andthe arm B2 is connected by a link B3 with the ear B4 of the pivoted gate or frame B5, (see Fig. 7,) having suitable bearings in which is reciprocated the needlebar A4, provided with an eye-pointed needle a. By means of the cam B', the arm B2, and

link B3 the gate B5 may be swung about its n pivots, one of which is shown at B6 in Fig. 6, all in usual manner, to enable the needle of the stitch-forming mechanism to be moved laterally for overedge stitching, all as commonly done in the Wheeler it Wilson machine referred to.

I will now proceed to describe features which I have invented and applied to this well-known form of machine.

I have applied upon the shaft CX, next the collar C2, a ratch et-wheel b, having an attached gear b', and surrounding the said shaft loosely between the ratchet-gear and the collar I have applied a pawl carrier b2, having a spring-h eld pawl b3 to engage the said ratchet, the pawl-carrier being jointed by a link b4() with an arm b5, fast on the shaft f2, before described, so that the latter shaft, as it is rocked rotates the said ratchetegear and bevel-gear b and rotates intermittingly ashaft c', which is extended up through a baseplate D, secured by suitable screws c2 to the bed of the machine. The base-plate D has a guideway D', (shown best in Figs. l and 2,) in which is placed a cross-slide D2, the said cross-slide having erected upon it a stand D3, upon the upper end of which is suitably pivoted an arm D4, the outer end of which, made broad, as at D5, (see Fig. 2,) has secured to it the yoke 3, to which is attached the holding-foot D, which bears upon the upper surface of the material w to be stayed, the latter resting on a throat-piece d, attached to an arm d', extended from the front edge of the said slide D2, the said parts constituting a clamp for the material. A suitable spring, as cl2, acts no1'- mally to keep the upper member of the clothclamp elevated, the said cloth-clamp being held down upon the work by a roller d3, connected to the forming part of a bar d4, which, in fact, is the same as the usual presser-bar of the said Wheeler da Wilson machine, said presser-bar in practice being held down by a spring and being adapted to be elevated by means of a lever d5, as in the said machine. The cross-slide D2 has attached to it by a screw 4 one end of a lever g, having its fulcrum at 5 on one end of a regulating lever g', slotted at or near one end, as at 7, to receive a screw 8, upon which is screwed a clampingnut 9, the turning down of the said nut clamping the regulating-lever in adjusted position. This regulating-lever constitutes what I shall call an adjustable or movable fulerum-carrier. The opposite end of the lever g has a suitable roller or other stud, as 10,(shown by dotted lines,) which enters the heart cam groove l2 in the clamp-actuating cam G, fast on the said shaft c. Assuming that the material to be stayed is put into position between the upper and lower members of the clamp and that the clamp is in its position toward the front of the machine or toward the operator, the presser-bar will be lowered, putting the roll (Z3 upon the end of the arm D5, it remaining there and rolling on the said arm throughout the movements of the clamp. The rotation of the heart-cam or the cam-plate G by the devices described will in its action upon the lever g, having its fulerum at 5, cause the cross-slide D2 and the clamp carried by it to be moved transversely of the bed-plate of the machine or in the di` rection of the arrow on the said cross-slide in Fig. 2, and during this operation the needlebar with its usual complementary stitch-forming mechanism common to the Wheeler da Wilson sewing-machine or other suitable machine will produce a series of overseaming or zigzag stitches substantially as in the uppermost diagram of Fig. S, and, the clamp having been moved the length of the stay to be made, the clamp will be reversed in its movement or moved opposite the arrow referred to, causing a second row of overseaming-stitches to be superimposed upon the iirst row, leaving a stay finished as represented in the undermost diagram Fig. 8. The length of the stay may be varied as required by adjusting the fulcrumcarrier g', and the width of the staying may be altered by adjusting the length of the connecting-rod B3.

It is not intended to limit this invention to the exact shape shown, for the heart-cam and, if desired,the shape ot' the heart may be such as to cause the clamp to be moved in one direction at a faster speed than at the otheras, for instance, it might be moved faster on its return stroke to thus put a series of longer stitches upon a series of shorter overseamingstitches.

Prior to this invention it has been common to place material to be stitched for buttonholes in a clamp, and the said material has received a series oi' overseamingstitehes at one side of the center line of the buttonhole, the clamp at such time moving transversely and the needle moving laterally, as well as vertically, and the stitching having been produced for one side of a buttonhole a series of overseaminfr-stitches parallel thereto and at the other side of the center line of the buttonhole has been made; but such class of machine differs from the invention herein described because herein the one row of overseaming-stitches is superimposed on another row of overseaming-stitches, thus accumulating stitch upon stitch, forming a strong stay.

I am also aware that prior to my invention material previously stitched about the edges of a slit to constitute a buttonhole has been put into a clamp, and the said clamp has had longer movements given to it previous to the length of the buttonhole to form two or more long stitches, crossing the small end of the buttonhole, and that thereafter the said clamp and material held by it has been moved laterally or in a direction at right angles to its former movement to thus enable a needle having only a vertical movement to stitch across the longer stitches iirst made, and at right angles to them to cover the said longer stitches and bar the end of the buttonhole,as in United States Patent No. 451,000. I do not claim anything shown in United States Patent No. 451,000 or in United States Patent No. 332,676, the latter patent being designed to work a buttonhole, the material held in a clamp being overstitched at the opposite edges of a slit, and the devices shown in the said IOO IIO

patents could not be used to perform the work for which this my invention has been especially devised. My machineis not adapted for buttonhole-stitching, and the heart-cam is 5 an essential feature in my invention,as it, by its action upon the the lever g, connected with the cross-slide, enables the said crossslide and clamp to be moved progressively and positively in one direction to make a se- Io ries of stitches, the cross-slide and clamp being moved more or less in either direction,ac cording to the length desired for the staying, and thereafter the said cross-slide is moved positively back to its starting-point, the ma- 15 terial during each movement in each direction receiving a series of zigzag stitches.

Having described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s zo l. In a machine for staying, the following instrumentalities, viz: overseaming-stitchforming mechanism, a clamp to hold the material to be stayed, the said clamp having an extended bearing-surface, a roller-presser actz 5 ing upon the said surface, a fulcruxn-lever, a heart-cam, and lever mounted upon thesaid fulcrum-lever and actuated by the said cam and connected with the said clamp, to operate substantially as described. 3o 2. In a machine for staying, the following instrumentalities, viz: overseaming stitchforming mechanism, a clamp to hold the material to be stayed, 4the said clamp having an extended bearing-surface, a roller-presser acting upon the said surface, a fulcrum-lever, a 35 heart-cam, a lever mounted upon the said fulcram-lever and actuated by the said cam and connected with the said clamp, and a clutch mechanism and gear intermediate it and the said cam, and means to move the said 4o clutch, to operate substantially as described.

3. The shaft, the bevel-gear loose thereon and having ratchet-teeth, the pawl and pawlcarrier, means to move the said pawl, the bevel-gear c, the shaft c', and the cam G, com- 45 bined with the two-partclamp havingacrossslide intermediate lever g, connected to and moved-by the cam to reciprocate the crossslide to which it is pivoted to thereby move the two-part clamp, and the base-plate hav-` 5o ing guideways to receive the said cross-slide, the combination being and operating substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my. name to this specification in the presence of 55 two subscribing witnesses.

.I AMES H. CLARK.

Witnesses:

D. F. FLANNERY, JACOB S. ScHAFF. 

